Showing posts with label costume. Show all posts
Showing posts with label costume. Show all posts

Sunday, 26 February 2017

George Romney - children's hair

In this post I am looking at some paintings by George Romney.

Romney was a friend of Ozias Humphry, the artist who painted the Rice Portrait. For identification of Ozias Humphry as the artist responsible for the Rice Portrait, you can read art conservator Eva Schwan's report HERE. Page 13 shows Ozias Humphry's monogram in the lower left area of the portrait.

Humphry's signatures have also been detected on a 100 year-old photograph of the portrait, which you can read about on my blog HERE. In that post you can also read about how Romney and Humphry's style of painting were so similar that it took a celebrated court case in 1917 to determine that a painting of the Misses Waldegrave was in fact painted by Ozias Humphry and not George Romney. The case was decided when a preparatory sketch of the portrait was produced which showed Humphry's distinctive monogram of an H within an O.




Like Ozias Humphry, George Romney paintings date entirely to the eighteenth century. He was born in Dalton-in-Furness in 1732 and retired in ill-health to Kendal in 1799 where he died in 1802. So, we can be confident that, like Ozias Humphry, who was functionally blind by 1798, a portrait which is identified as a Romney, cannot date to the nineteenth century.

One of the objections which has been raised against the Rice Portrait, eg HERE, is that the hairstyle of the girl in the Rice Portrait dates the portrait to the nineteenth century, not the eighteenth. But is this correct? If the portrait was painted in 1788 or 1789 as the Austen family have always believed, then Jane would have been about 13 years old and still considered a child and it is therefore childrens' hairstyles that we should be looking at.

If Romney painted children with short, similar styles to the girl in the Rice Portrait, then this would demonstrate that the style could indeed date to the late eighteenth century.

Did he?

Well, let's take a look.

First up - a painting which many believe to be his masterpiece: The Gower Family: The Children of Granville,2nd Earl Gower painted in 1777, which hangs at Abbot Hall Art Gallery in Kendal.

The painting depict the five youngest children of Lord Gower. The eldest girl, with the tambourine is Anne, child of his second marriage, whilst the four younger children are by his third wife, Lady Susannah Stewart.



The girl in the green dress on the left is Georgina Granville, born in April 1769, who later married William Elliot and became Countess of St Germans. Look more closely here at her short hair:




Next, here are the Misses Cumberland, painted in 1773.



The daughters of dramatist Richard Cumberland, Elizabeth (b1759) is on the left and Sophia (b1761) is on the right. They are holding a copy of their father's play The Fashionable Lover, published in 1772. Sophia therefore would be around 13 years old.

Here is Sophia's hair, close-up:



Here are some more examples:

The Vernon Children:







Two Children in a Wooded Landscape:






Portrait of Maria Emily Fagniani as a child (Painted in 1783 when she was aged about 12):




Now compare to the style of hair of the children in these portraits to the style of the hair in the Rice Portrait. Remember, all these portraits were painted before 1800.












And yet it is argued that the hairstyle of the girl in the Rice Portrait cannot date to before 1800.

What do you think?



Saturday, 3 September 2016

Lanhydrock and Anna Maria Hunt

This week I visited Lanhydrock house in Cornwall.





This imposing country pile situated between Bodmin and Lostwithiel in mid-Cornwall is now a flagship property for the National Trust. It was for many years the home of the Agar-Robartes family and had been in the ownership of the Robartes since around 1621 when Richard Robartes bought the house. Richard's father John Robartes had amassed huge riches supplying fuel to the tin industry while Richard Robartes made money as a 'gentleman-moneylender'. He used his wealth to buy power and influence, purchasing the Baronetcy of Truro from the Duke of Buckingham for £10,000.

Richard Robartes son, another John, was a staunch Parliamentarian, but as Cromwell moved towards an English 'Terror', with the execution of Charles I and military dictatorship, a disenchanted Robartes retired quietly to his Lanhydrock estate. He found favour after the Restoration with Charles II despite his lack of friends and social skills; Pepys said that he was 'a destroyer of everybody's business and doth no good at all to the public'. Nevertheless, it was under John Robartes ownership that a substantial part of Lanhydrock house was built.

After John Robartes death, his successors, preferring London life to a Cornish backwater, lived elsewhere and throughout the eighteenth century the house was sorely neglected. When traveller John Loveday visited in 1736, he said the house was 'extremely out of repair and utterly destitute of furniture.'

By the end of the eighteenth century the house had passed, by the marriage of Mary Vere Robartes (d.1758), to the Hunt family of Mollington Hall, Cheshire. Mary's eldest son George Hunt made extensive alterations and refurnished the house in contemporary style. He also tried to make the exterior of the house look more contemporary by following the prevailing fashion for brick and painted the granite exterior red.

George Hunt never married and over time it became accepted that his niece Anna Maria Hunt (1771-1861) would inherit Lanhydrock. She was the daughter of George's brother Thomas Hunt and his wife, Mary Bold. The couple had two children, Mary Vere in 1766 and Anna Maria in 1771. Sadly, Mary Vere Hunt died when her sister Anna Maria was just 9, and her father Thomas died in 1789 when Anna Maria was 18 years old. Unsurprisingly then, Anna Maria and her mother Mary Hunt remained close for the rest of their lives.


Mary Hunt by Joseph Wright of Derby circa 1795

Mary Hunt by George Romney 1769

When she was 21, Anna Maria's Uncle George commissioned George Romney to paint a portrait of his niece and heir. Romney had already painted Anna Maria's mother, in 1769. Romney had written in his notebook for that year: 'Mrs Hunt's picture before it be well dryed the coloure is apt to turn verry yellow my picture will turn yellow in a small degree but that will come of if the picture is well dryed. If it should be the case with Mrs Hunts setting of it in a strong light a day or two will bring it to its original clearness

Anna Maria sat for Romney seven times at his studio in 1792 and the portrait was delivered to the home of George Hunt at Seymour Place, London, on 20 June 1793. Possibly the picture was intended as an engagement portrait, but if so, the event never happened. Some time later her dog Dragon was added and her hairstyle changed to reflect the fashion of the day.

Anna Maria Hunt by George Romney 1792/3




In 1798, at the age of 27, Anna Maria Hunt did inherit Lanhydrock - but she did not inherit her uncle's wealth. The money went to another branch of the family. leaving Anna Maria with £68,000 of debt and £100 to run the estate. It is a testament to her determination, hard work and sound financial management that over the coming years she managed to get the house on a sound financial footing although she did not spend a huge amount of time here, preferring to live in Mayfair, London close to her mother Mary. In order to bring the exterior up to date, in imitation of Portland stone she had the granite exterior of the house painted yellow.

In 1804 Anna Maria married Charles Agar, a 35 year old lawyer and youngest son of Viscount Clifden. The marriage settlement stipulated that she would continue to exercise control over a substantial portion of her money. They had three sons, Charles, Thomas and Edward, but by 1818, Anna Maria's husband and two of her three sons were dead, leaving only her middle son, Thomas James. Anna Maria Hunt continued working to maintain the Lanhydrock estate until well into her seventies alongside her son.

Anna Maria Hunt died in 1861 and her son Thomas inherited Lanhydrock. Thomas had married Juliana Pole-Carew of Antony House in 1839. On 4 April 1881 they were in the house when a huge fire broke out. A telegram was sent to London: Lanhydrock on fire. Only the Gallery left. Lord and Lady Robartes well. In fact Lady Robartes died four days later and Lord Roberts the following year.


The Jacobean ceiling in the Long Gallery which survived the fire



In 2015 there was an incredible find at Lanhydrock when a book dating from 1495 was linked to Henry VIII. The book is a summary of the writings of the theologian William of Ockham and contains notes and annotations by the king's advisors to build a case for the annulment of his marriage to Catherine of Aragon.


As I have mentioned HERE the great interest for me at Lanhydrock is the portrait by Romney of Anna Maria Hunt for its possible relevance to the long running debate about the dating of the costume in the Rice portrait. Some costume experts in the past have claimed that the puffed sleeves of the girl in the Rice Portrait are one of the costume features which date the painting to c1805 and the National Portrait Gallery, as far as I am aware, remains of this view today. Yet we know that the portrait of Anna Maria Hunt was delivered in 1793 and she is also wearing puffed sleeves.

I've put the dresses side by side below so you can compare them - to me the sleeves look remarkably similar.

Anna Maria Hunt painted 1792/3 left and Rice Portrait right

I am indebted to the article by Ann Marie Curtis, An Accidental Heiress in Lanhydrock Journal number 10  and to Paul Holden, house and collections manager at Lanhydrock House for information about Anna Maria Hunt and her portrait.

Thank you for reading.


Ellie Bennett








Wednesday, 10 August 2016

Anne Maria Hunt and her puffed sleeves


'The earliest instance I can find of a puffed sleeve is in the portrait of Princess Augusta by Sir W Beechey 1802. Until 1800 sleeves are straight and tight."

Madeleine Ginsberg, Senior Research Assistance (Costume) Department of Textiles, Victoria and Albert Museum, in a letter to John Kerslake at the National Portrait Museum dated 14 January 1975.


Madeleine Ginsberg presumably was unaware of this well known portrait by George Romney of Anna Maria Hunt. As I've said before, we now have the benefit of the internet, which was not available to experts in years gone by.


Anna Maria Hunt sat seven times for Romney at his studio during 1792 and he completed the portrait over the next two years.





The portrait is owned by the National Trust and is at Lanhydrock House, near Lostwithiel in
Cornwall.

Mistakes happen of course, but how much more evidence needs to be provided before the V&A, the Courtauld Institute of Art and/or the National Portrait Gallery concede that the experts were mistaken to date the dress in the Rice Portrait to c1805?

Are any of them prepared to announce that the dress could date to the late eighteenth century? If not then this begs the question - why are they so resistant?


*update 20/08/2016

There is no doubt whatsoever about the dating of this portrait as Romney himself records the dates he painted it. The portrait was commissioned by Anna Maria Hunt's uncle and delivered to his home at Seymour Place, London on 20 June 1793.
 

Ellie Bennett





Tuesday, 24 May 2016

Costume Experts "Too Adamant"

The opponents of the Rice Portrait would have us all believe that the "experts" are unanimously against the Rice Portrait and that its supporters are a few deluded souls who are hoping  - against all the available evidence - that this is indeed a portrait of Jane Austen.

I hope I have disabused readers of this fallacy in the arguments I have made on this blog.

Today I thought I would share a letter written by Richard Walker, the Regency expert at the National Portrait Gallery to the then owner of the portrait, Henry Rice, in 1986.

Richard Walker is not unsympathetic to the claim that this picture is indeed of Jane Austen  - and he is more than a little sceptical of over-confidence on the part of the costume experts.

He says: "I do encourage you to press on in spite of cold water from the costume people. I find they are very often too adamant in their pronouncements."




Letter from Richard Walker to Henry Rice










Wednesday, 4 May 2016

Jane Austen, 18th Century Costume and the Rice Portrait. Are the experts out of date?


The Rice Portrait


"Your gown seems very pretty. I like these glossy spots"
 Edmund Bertram in Mansfield Park
The arguments surrounding the dating of the dress of the girl in the Rice Portrait have been rumbling on for years and remain the main reason given by the National Portrait Gallery for refusing to accept it is a portrait of Jane Austen. As far back in 1941 C K Adams of the National Portrait Gallery said: "The style of dress with narrow ribbon round high waist, and slightly puffed half sleeves is of the period c1805. In a search I have not found a similar dress on a dated portrait before 1803 when Jane was 28."

Where C K Adams searched we do not know but it is worth remembering that this was at the height of the Second World War in an era pre-internet, pre-television and pre-mass communication.

More recently, in 1995, Professor Aileen Ribeiro of the Courtauld Institute said that the Rice Portrait "cannot be earlier than c1800 and therefore cannot be Austen as a young girl." She was not always so certain, as she acknowledged - "When asked to comment a few years ago, I noted that this type of costume, as worn by young girls, could range in date from the late eighteenth century to the early nineteenth. Now I am sure a date in the first decade of the nineteenth century is right."

These days searching for pictures is easy and a search on "Pinterest" shows pages of portraits of children in white muslin dresses.

I am not a fashion expert. But to my untrained eye, many of the dresses in portraits dated before 1800 share common features with the dress of the girl in the Rice Portrait including puffed sleeves, narrow ribbons and high waists.

I am therefore at a loss to understand how the dress in the Rice Portrait can be so categorically dated to after 1800.

Here are some examples which I have found searching online:



Detail from The Oddie Children
William Beechey
1789




Portrait of an Unknown Girl
William Marshall Craig
1794




From Portrait of the Willett Children
George Romney
1789-91

Detail showing sleeves




Mary Sheppard
John Russell
1792


Small girl presenting cherries
John Russell
c1780





Shepherd Girl  (Little Bo Peep)
George Romney
1778

Detail of sleeve






















Portrait of a Girl
William Beechey
c1790








"Pinkie"
Sir Thomas Lawrence
1794

Detail showing half sleeve




The Little Gardener
John Hoppner
c 1790


Detail from Charlotte Grenville with her Children
by Joshua Reynolds
c 1778


Detail from Mr and Mrs John Cunstance of Norwich
and their daughter Frances
William Beechey
c 1786


Boy and Cat
John Russell
1791


Portrait of a Young Girl
John Russell
c 1780


Unknown Girl
Louis Ami Arlaud-Jurine
c1790





Detail of sleeve compared to the Rice Portrait sleeve on the right
The portrait on the left has been dated c1790


Princess Amelia
Sir William Beechey
1797



Princess Sophia
Sir William Beechey
1797


The Romps
William Redmore Bigg
c1795


Collectors and experts on Eighteenth century costume Lillian and Ted Williams thought that the dress could date to the eighteenth century: 

Having carefully examined the actual portrait, as opposed to its reproduction, we find several elements that clearly suggest eighteenth century dating starting in the late 1780s. We ourselves have owned several eighteenth century gowns similar to the one pictured in the Rice Portrait. In the Rice Portrait, we note the fullness of the cut of the dress with substantial distribution of its fabric around the bodice rather than trained in the rear in the later Empire style. Furthermore, the gauze gathered around the neckline – which is not discernible in many photographic reproductions – is consistent with late eighteenth century garniture. Finally, the shoes and certainly the parasol with its fringe of cut green silk are consistent with the same period. As far as dating is concerned, the width of the ribbon at the bodice is of no consequence one way or the other in our view.


Lillian Williams'
18th Century shoe collection

In 1993 Richard Walker of the National Portrait Gallery wrote in a letter to Deirdre Le Faye that "I think the costume experts have been over-confident and the dress she wears could be of the 1790's"

Having looked at the these portraits I think that he is right - what do you think?



Thank you for reading. My next post on Deirdre Le Faye's 1995 article A Literary Portrait Re-Examined. Jane Austen and Mary Anne Campion, published in The Book Collector will follow soon.